Why "Reading the Ingredients on the Bottle" is Your Skincare Superpower
Before we dive into the specific ingredients, we need to talk about concentration. In the INCI list, ingredients are listed in descending order of weight. Which means the first five to seven ingredients usually make up the “meat” of the product.
Knowing your INCI names is the only way to ensure you aren’t overpaying for “marketing fluff.” For example, a brand might scream “Hemp Seed Oil!” on the front of the bottle, but the INCI list might show it as the very last ingredient, meaning there’s barely a drop inside. By learning the names below, you can verify if the star ingredients are high enough on the list to benefit your skin.
The most common goal of any skincare routine is maintaining the Skin Barrier, and that is achieved through three specific types of ingredients: Humectants, Emollients, and Occlusives.
1. Humectants: The Water Magnets
Humectants are “water-loving” molecules. They draw moisture from the environment (or the deeper layers of your skin) and hold it in the stratum corneum (the top layer).
1 | Glycerin | Glycerin (The gold standard) |
2 | Sodium Hyaluronate | Hyaluronic Acid (salt form) |
3 | Panthenol | Pro-Vitamin B5 |
4 | Sorbitol | Sugar alcohol / Sorbitol |
5 | Urea | Urea |
6 | Sodium PCA | Sodium PCA (part of skin’s natural moisturizing factor) |
7 | Butylene Glycol | Butylene Glycol (also acts as a solvent) |
8 | Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice | Aloe Vera |
9 | Honey / Mel | Honey |
10 | Lactic Acid | Lactic Acid (an AHA that hydrates at low percentages) |
2. Emollients: The Smoothers
Emollients are fats and oils that “fill in the cracks” between skin cells that are dry or flaking. They give skin that soft, silky texture and improve flexibility.
1 | Squalane | Squalane |
2 | Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride | Fractionated Coconut Oil |
3 | Butyrospermum Parkii Butter | Shea Butter |
4 | Simmondsia Chinensis Seed Oil | Jojoba Oil |
5 | Helianthus Annuus Seed Oil | Sunflower Seed Oil |
6 | Cetyl Alcohol | Cetyl Alcohol (a moisturizing “fatty” alcohol) |
7 | Isopropyl Myristate | Isopropyl Myristate |
8 | Dicaprylyl Ether | Dicaprylyl Ether (a “dry” emollient) |
9 | Ceramide NP | Ceramide 3 |
10 | Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil | Grape Seed Oil |
3. Occlusives: The Sealants
Occlusives are the “final coat of paint.” They are usually heavy or waxy and create a physical barrier that prevents water from evaporating from your skin, a process known as TEWL (Transepidermal Water Loss).
1 | Petrolatum | Petroleum Jelly |
2 | Dimethicone | Silicone |
3 | Paraffinum Liquidum | Mineral Oil |
4 | Cera Alba | Beeswax |
5 | Lanolin | Lanolin (Sheep wool wax) |
6 | Candelilla Cera | Candelilla Wax |
7 | Theobroma Cacao Seed Butter | Cocoa Butter |
8 | Microcrystalline Wax | Microcrystalline Wax |
9 | Cholesterol | Cholesterol (essential for the skin barrier) |
10 | Caprylyl Methicone | Lightweight Silicone |
The Moisture Minded Takeaway:
Once you learn the INCI names of ingredients for the three pillars of skin care
- Humectants add water.
- Emollients smooth the surface.
- Occlusives lock it all in.
You will be able to give your body what it wants.
Always remember, listen to your body and stay moisture-minded 💧