Understanding Humectants, Occlusives, and Emollients
Move beyond basic lotion to create a routine tailored to your skin's unique needs.
Welcome back to Moisture Minded! Building on our last post about hydration as the foundation of healthy skin, today we’ll explore the three essential ingredient categories in most moisturizers—Humectants, Occlusives, and Emollients—and see how they contribute to skin health. Let’s start by defining these building blocks of effective moisturization.
The Science of Skin Health
First, let’s clarify terms: “Moisture” is any water or liquid, and a “Moisturizer” is a substance that adds moisture to the skin. Moisturizers are classified based on their properties and how they interact with your skin. These important properties are:
1. Humectants (The Water Magnets)
A Humectant is a hygroscopic substance that increases the water content in your skin. It forms hydrogen bonds with water, essentially drawing moisture.
It’s important to note that, when used on their own, humectants can pull water from the deeper layers of your skin, potentially leading to increased water loss, especially when the air is dry. That’s why they should always be paired with an occlusive.
2. Occlusives (The Protective Shields)
Occlusives create a hydrophobic (water-repelling) protective barrier across your skin’s surface. Their primary job is to prevent Transepidermal Water Loss (TEWL), the process by which water evaporates from your skin, which occurs rapidly when the skin barrier is compromised. By sealing the skin, occlusives keep the water delivered by humectants locked inside.
3. Emollients (The Smooth Operators)
Emollients are substances designed to keep your skin soft and smooth. They work by filling the tiny gaps between skin cells, replacing lost lipids, and enhancing the skin’s overall texture and suppleness. Because they smooth and fortify the protective barrier, emollients often act as a light occlusive as well.
Creating Your Personalized Routine
Most well-formulated lotions and creams contain a combination of humectants, occlusives, and emollients. The real question is: Do you need more than just a single moisturizer?
Your skin’s signals determine your needs.
- Your skin may be happy with just a balanced moisturizer that contains all three components.
- If you experience persistent dryness (like I do), your skin may need extra support, and layering can be a helpful approach.
Layering for Maximum Moisture
You can add extra moisture protection by layering:
- Apply a humectant. Use a product containing distilled water and glycerin, or an aloe vera gel, on your skin as your first layer. This draws moisture into your skin.
- Then, add an emollient for smoothness or extra protection.
- Apply an occlusives. After the humectant, ( Need more Information)
Special Consideration: Noncomedogenic for the Face
When choosing facial care products, keep in mind their potential to clog pores.
A Note on “Noncomedogenic”: Noncomedogenic products are advertised as being unlikely to clog pores or cause acne. However, be aware that the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) does not regulate this claim, meaning companies are not required to provide proof. This term is also not synonymous with “oil-free,” as some oils are safe, and some oil-free products can still contain pore-clogging substances. Ingredients like aloe vera and glycerin are generally safe. For active acne, pair noncomedogenic items with actives like salicylic acid or retinoids. Due to the lack of regulation, a product may still cause irritation in sensitive individuals.
Try introducing one new noncomedogenic oil at a time, giving your skin time to adjust before adding another. Whether you use one oil, a blend, or a tried-and-true moisturizer, the goal is the same: adding extra barriers to help seal in moisture. The most important step: know your skin and pay attention to what it truly needs, rather than what you think it needs.
Beyond the Face: Butters and Body Care
The skin on your body is generally less sensitive than your face! While reactions can still happen, your body is often more receptive to a variety of product types, including lotions, creams, oils, and butters, such as shea, mango, cocoa, or kokum.
Butters are excellent emollients for the body. The same principle applies: ensure your body care routine has a humectant, an occlusive, and an emollient to thoroughly moisturize. There is no better time to prioritize this than during the harsh, moisture-stripping winter months!
Finally, as we wrap up Remember: Always listen to your body, it will tell you what is good for it. And always remember to stay moisture-minded!
Source: Medically reviewed by Clare Wightman, MS, PAC, Written by Zawn Villines, Updated on June 26, 2023.